MAINTENANCE TIPS FEEDING YOUR LAWN The amount of fertilizer your lawn requires depends on the quantity of fertilizer used and the quality of growth desired. More fertilizer is needed in heavy use areas, where heavy watering is practised, and where grass clippings are removed. Lawn fertilizers contain nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K). The numbers on each bag of fertilizer indicate the percentage of each of these plant nutrients. For example, a 20-5-10 label indicates the bag contains 20 percent nitrogen, 5 percent phosphorous, and 10 percent potassium and the N-P-K- ratio is 4-1-2. Two forms of nitrogen are available for use on residential lawns: slow release (Sulphur Coated Urea or Urea Formaldehyde), and fast release (ammonium nitrate). Slow release nitrogen fertilizers are more expensive but only one spring/summer application is necessary and the possibility of leaf burn is almost completely eliminated. Some fertilizers may also contain weed control herbicides. Every fertilizer bag label gives specific application rates. Always follow fertilizer bag instructions carefully. To ensure even coverage, apply half of the required amount in perpendicular directions. NEVER apply fertilizer when the grass is wet. Avoid fertilizing during period of heat or stress and water application, if possible. See our Fertilizer Schedule and Detailed Application under the Fertilization Link. Back To Top MOWING YOUR LAWN A lawn which is properly mowed will be more healthy and better able to resist weeds, disease, and insects. It is very important to keep mower blades sharp. This may mean blade sharpening several times per season. A dull blade tears the leaves, which not only causes discolouration, but also makes the lawn more susceptible to insects and disease. A common mistake is to mow too short. Too short lawns are less tolerant to stress and more prone to disease and weeds. A Kentucky Bluegrass lawn should be mowed to a height of no less than 5 to 6 centimetres. (2-3") During hot weather increase the mowing height to 8 to 9 centimetres. (3-4") To ensure the right mower height, measure the mower blade height by placing it on a driveway or sidewalk. When the grass becomes one third taller than the desired height, it must be mowed. If a mowing is missed, cut halfway back to the intended height, then mow to the normal height several days later. Remove clippings only if they clump or in conditions where there is excessive thatch; otherwise, recycle them back into the lawn. Removing clippings can increase fertilizer requirements by 20 to 30 percent. Avoid mowing your lawn when it¹s wet. Vary your mowing pattern to lessen wheel rutting and soil compaction. Always follow safe mowing practices. Remove any rocks, sticks, or other debris from the lawn to prevent personal injury and equipment damage. Wear sturdy leather/safety shoes (no open toes) and close-fitting clothes to avoid being caught in moving parts. Operate equipment carefully. Back To Top WATERING YOUR LAWN During hot summer weather, lawns generally require 2.5 centimetres (1") of water every five to seven days. Without this amount of water from rainfall and/or irrigation during periods of high temperature and/or drought, Kentucky Bluegrass stops growing and turns brown. Water only when the lawn needs it; just before it begins to wilt. When the colour becomes bluish-green and footprints remain for more than a few seconds after you walk across it, the lawn needs watering. The optimal time to water is early in the morning when winds are calm and water loss caused by evaporation is minimal. Evening watering may encourage fungal diseases by leaving the lawn too wet for too long. Try to avoid midday watering which causes inefficient water use on hot, sunny days. Infrequent, heavy watering encourages deep rooting, controls weeds, and creates a thick, lush turf. Apply water evenly and slowly so it penetrates without runoff. Depending on soil type, 2.5 centimetres (1") water will penetrate the soil to a depth of 10 to 15 centimetres (4-6"). Place shallow, straight-sided containers on the lawn under the sprinkler to measure the quantity of water applied. Application of the correct amount of water is very important. Frequent light watering is harmful to overall lawn quality because it encourages growth of shallow rooted weeds. On the other hand, too much water increases fertilizer requirements, encourages thatch accumulation, and creates an environment favourable to disease. Back To Top CONTROLLING WEEDS The best weed control is a healthy, dense turf nurtured by proper mowing, fertilization, and watering. Chemical weed killers should be used only when necessary, and always with discretion. Two types of chemical weed controls are available; post-emergent, which kills the growing weed plant, and pre-emergent, which kills weed seeds as they germinate. Broad-leaf weeds such as dandelions, ground ivy, clovers, plantain, black medic, and thistles can be eliminated by treatment with post-emergent chemicals. They are available under trade names such as as Killex and can be applied as a directed water spray or purchased pre-mixed in fertilizer. No matter the method of application, chemicals are most effective when weeds are growing vigorously. For difficult to control weeds, a second application may be necessary two or three weeks after the first. Always follow package directions carefully. Pre-emergent chemicals are applied to the soil surface where they kill seeds as they sprout in the spring. This procedure is commonly used to control crabgrass which grows from seed every season. The package will give directions as to timing and application rates. Chemical control of many annual and perennial grasses, such as annual bluegrass, quackgrass, and bentgrasses, is very difficult in residential lawns. Severe damage to the lawn is often a by-product. Removal by hand pulling, or digging out the affected area and replacing it with sod, may be the most effective methods of control. Back To Top CONTROLLING DISEASE Disease problems are minimized by good lawn care. Most diseases attack only weak grasses. Healthy turf will withstand infestation and recover faster than neglected turf. Good care practices include: Use enough fertilizer to keep grass growing vigorously, but avoid too much fertilizer which produces weak grass that tends to lie down. Mow when the grass becomes one third taller than the desired height. Remove no more than one inch at any one time. Keep your mower blades sharp. Don¹t allow clippings to accumulate until they form a mat. Remove thatch as required. See THATCH section for guidelines. Avoid frequent, and late evening watering which tend to keep the grass wet and more susceptible to fungal infections. At the first sign of a disease problem, contact a lawn care contractor, a landscaper, a garden centre, or a local sod grower for advice. Back To Top CONTROLLING INSECTS Unlike diseases, which can be prevented, insects are usually controlled only after they appear. It is important that they be detected and identified as quickly as possible before they do too much damage. Proper mowing, watering, fertilization, and thatch control, are all factors to consider as part of an integrated approach to lawn pest control. Insects may be divided into two categories; those which feed on leaves and stems, and those which attack roots. Leaf and stem feeders include hairy chinch bugs, cutworms, turfgrass scale, and sod webworms. All can be controlled with timely applications of chemicals. Root feeders include white grubs, European chafers, Japanese beetles, billbugs, leathr jackets and European Cranefly. Each has a different life cycle which requires different treatment periods, but each can be controlled when the grubs are young and actively feeding near the soil surface. If in doubt as to the identity of any of these insects, or as to the timing and/or treatment required, contact a lawn care contractor, a landscaper, a garden centre, or a local sod grower for advice. Back To Top THATCH Thatch is a soil surface layer of old leaves, clippings, stems, roots, and other organic material which has failed to decompose due to insufficient microorganism activity. A layer limited to 1 to 1.5 centimetres (3/8 - 5/8") in thickness is generally considered beneficial because it promotes a more weed-free, drought tolerant lawn with better colour and more stress tolerance. However, when the accumulation becomes thicker than 2 centimetres (7/8"), water and fertilizer remains in the thatch layer instead of reaching the plant roots, and insects and diseases are protected from chemical applications. The primary causes of thatch are poor soil drainage, compacted soils, overwatering, and too high a level of nitrogen application. Secondary causes include underuse of fertilizer and overuse of certain pesticides. The thatch layer can be reduced by limiting the amount of organic material returned to the soil and by encouraging increased microorganism activity. Cut back nitrogen fertilizer applications to 30 percent of normal levels especially in the early spring. Reduce the amount and frequency of watering. Apply pesticides sparingly. Rake the lawn vigorously. To further promote microorganism activity, aerate the lawn to a depth of 5 centimetres (2") in May or September, then shatter the soil cores and leave them on the soil surface . For very heavy thatch layers, the use of a dethatching machine may be necessary. Some lawn damage will result but, with proper care, lawns usually make a full recovery. SOIL COMPACTION Clay soils and heavy traffic areas are particularly subject to compaction. If soil is trampled, especially when wet, compaction will likely occur. Compaction creates poor soil aeration, and restricts water and fertilizer movement through the soil, which causes thin, unhealthy grass. A power driven aerator is the most effective method to relieve compaction. An additional benefit is the control of thatch, if it is present. Hollow tines pierce the soil to a depth of 5 to 7 centimetres (2-3") extracting soil cores which can either be removed or broken down and left on the soil surface. The openings allow water, air, and nutrients to reach turf roots. Aeration should take place when the lawn is actively growing and when the soil is moist but not wet. Spring, after the lawn has been mowed two or three times, is the ideal time to perform this operation, with September as an alternate choice. It may be necessary to hire a landscaper or lawn care contractor who has the proper equipment. Some rental companies may also have appropriate units. Generally, it is not necessary to aerate home lawns unless there is compaction or thatch problem. Compaction may be lessened by changing traffic patterns and refraining from the use of heavy lawn rollers, especially under wet conditions. Back To Top LAWN RENOVATION For small areas, intense care may be all that is required to restore diminished grasses. Mow at a height of at least 5 centimetres, (2") increase fertilizer applications to 5 or 6 starting in early April and ending in mid-September, and increase watering frequency. Control of weeds, disease, and insects is essential. These practices stimulate rapid growth which will encourage existing grasses to fill thin areas. In areas where thin but desirable grasses remain, overseeding is an option. Expect a high failure rate unless the seed is in firm contact with the soil and the area is kept moist enough to prevent drought until the new seedlings are well established (6 to 8 weeks after planting). Spread seed on the soil surface at double the recommended seeding rate, then cover with topsoil, and roll firmly. Alternatively, the seed may be placed into the ground by a mechanical overseeder. Growth from seed to a thick lawn will take in excess of one year. In areas where inadequate or no grass remains, sod can be used for immediate repair. Prepare the site as discussed earlier but remember to allow for the thickness of the sod. Even with minimal care, sodding has the highest success rate. WEBSITE LINKS Healthy Lawn – www.healthylawns.net Guelph Turfgrass Institute – www.uoguelph.ca/GTI Weather Networks – www.theweathernetwork.com MEMBERS OF: Nursery Sod Growers Association Turfgrass Producers International Landscape Ontario Chamber of  Commerce Welland/Pelham Ontario Federation of Agriculture   Back To Top Home : Products & Services : Installation Tips : Maintenance Tips : Contact Us Gallery : Did you know? : Fertilization : Frequently Asked Questions